With the use of photographs of geese taken from a magazine and some fine chicken wire, the front of this key cupboard has been made to look just like a geese pen. For that special Easter touch, eggs have been stuck all around the edge of the cupboard.

Key cupboard

Emulsion paint (soft pink)

Paintbrush

Scissors

Pictures of geese and lots of eggs

Re-usable adhesive

PVA glue

Polyurethane matt wood varnish

Small piece of chicken wire

VARIATIONS

If pictures of geese don’t readily come to hand, search out some brightly coloured ducks who are equally prolific egg layers, or even some hens with fluffy chicks.

1 Paint the entire key cupboard with two our, 1 of the soft pink emulsion. Wait for the first coat of paint to thoroughly dry before applying the second coat.

2 Cut out the geese, trimming them as necessary so that they fit onto the cupboard door. Also cut out an election of Easter eggs — these can usually be found in magazines around Easter time, of course!

3 Arrange the geese and the eggs around the cupboard, using the re-usable adhesive so that you can re-arrange them if you wish to. Keep aside one of the large pictures of a goose.

4 Once you have arranged the composition so that you like it, stick down the pictures with the PVA. Smooth down each picture with your fingers to remove any air bubbles.

5 Once the glue has dried, varnish the front of the J cupboard with the polyurethane matt varnish. Use three to four coats allowing each one to dry before applying the next.

6 Take a piece of the chicken wire and cut it so that it is just slightly larger that the edges of the door. Then prise the edges of the chicken wire into the door frame, taking care not to damage the paintwork. Take the last goose and stick it over the bottom half of the wire.

Black cats silhouetted against a cream shade make a wonderful catty gift. Tall, stately Egyption cats, prowling fierce cats, and cosy, snuggling cats will all sit very happily side by side, united in their blackness.

What you need

Cat silhouettes

Pencil
Black sugar paper
Scissors/craft knife

Plain lampshade and base

Re-usable adhesive

PVA glue

Chinagraph pencil
Paintbrush (fine)
Acrylic paint (black)
Gloss varnish

VARIATIONS

The cats needn’t just be black. Perhaps you would like to recreate your own cat, if you have one, or a series of differently coloured felines. All you need to do is cut out the cat in the correctly coloured sugar paper, or paint its markings over the top of the black paper.

1 Either photocopy or trace the cat silhouettes 1, transfer the images onto the black sugar paper and then cut out as many of each shape of cat as you need, using either the scissors or craft knife.

2 Using the re-usable adhesive, arrange the silhouettes around the bottom edge of the lampshade grouping them in whichever way you prefer. When you are happy with your design it is time to move onto step 3.

3 One by one, stick the cats in place using the PVA glue. To make sure they are stuck firmly, rub your fingers lightly over the top of each one to remove any air bubbles.

4Using the chinagraph pencil, copy the paw printsthat appear above onto the lamp base. With a chinagraph you can easily remove any mistakes you might make by simply rubbing off the marks. When the prints look right, fill in the design using the fine paintbrush and black acrylic paint.

5 To finish off the lamp base, wait until the acrylic paint has dried and then apply one or two coats of varnish to prevent the acrylic from chipping. Wait for the first coat of varnish to dry before applying the next.

Use the brilliant colours of glass paints and gold outliner to create a rich and luminous effect that will look stunning by candlelight. The relief outliner produces a raised design with an almost Indian feel.

MATERIALS

Jars
methylated spirits (rubbing alcohol)
medium paintbrush
solvent-based glass paints
gold glass-painting outliner
paper towels

1 Wash the jars in a solution of detergent to remove grease and sticky labels. Use methylated spirits (rubbing alcohol) to remove any stubborn bits. Dry thoroughly. Brush the solvent-based glass paints generously on to the jars, but do not let heavy drips build up.

2 Leave to dry for about 24 hours, then apply the designs with thegold glass-painting outliner. Start with the border at the top and bottom. If you make a mistake, you can wipe it away quickly with paper towels. The outliner takes a very long time to dry completely; though it is touch-dry within 24 hours, allow up to 72 hours to be really sure. Now, using the glass paints, fill in the motifs in the middle.

This lavishly decorated box is almost a gift in itself, and is a stylish way to conceal a special surprise. Natural materials work well with fabric flowers, and you can use paper ribbon both to cover the box and to tie the chunky bow on top.

MATERIALS

scissors
paper ribbon
oval cardboard box with lid
PV A (white) glue
paintbrush
corrugated cardboard
pencil
selection of fabric flowers

1 Cut the paper ribbon long enough to fit around the rim of the box lid with a small overlap. Unfurl, and glue in place using a paintbrush. Fold and glue the excess ribbon under and above the rim.

2 Place the lid on the corrugated cardboard with the corrugations running straight from end to end. Draw around the edge and cut out the shape. Glue on to the lid to cover the surplus ribbon.

3 Cut two lengths of ribbon each measuring three times the width of the lid. Unfurl, and glue one end of each piece to the lid, tucking the ends under the rim. Tie the other ends together in a large bow. Trim.

4 Put the lid on the box. Measure the distance from the bottom of the box to the lower edge of the lid. Cut a strip of corrugated cardboard this width, and long enough to wrap around the box. Glue in place.

5 Cut the fabric flowers and leaves from their wire stalks. Glue on to the box, so that they give the effect of a sheaf of flowers lying underneath the bow.

Delicate, swirling brush strokes create a watery background for this delightful sea horse. The box can be used for storing stationery, pencils, jewellery or even cosmetics.

MATERIALS

coping saw or fret saw-
5 mm (V4 in) thick pine slat,
68 x 3 cm (27 x 1,4 in)
ruler
pencil
medium and fine-grade sandpaper
wood glue
masking tape

5 mm (/4 in) thick birch-faced

plywood sheet, 40 cm (16 in) square
medium and fine paintbrushes
white undercoat paint
acrylic paints: blue, white, green and
gold
tracing paper
stencil card (cardboard) or acetate
sheet
craft knife
cutting mat
stencil brush

1 Cut two 20 cm (8 in) and two -I- 14 cm (5/2 in) lengths of pine slat. Use the sandpaper to remove any rough edges. Glue together to form the sides of the box. Hold the frame together with masking tape while the wood glue is drying.

2 Cut two pieces of thick birch- faced plywood to fit inside the frame for the base and lid insert. Draw around the outside of the box and cut out to make the lid. Glue the base into the frame. Sand the edges of the lid insert and glue it to the lid.

3 Sand the box, paint it with white undercoat. When dry, sand the box again using fine-grade sandpaper. Paint the box with swirling brush strokes using two shades of blue acrylic paint.

4 the template on to tracing paper, and transfer it to the stencil card (cardboard) or acetate sheet. Cut out carefully with a craft knife, using a cutting mat to protect your work surface.

5 Tape the stencil to the lid and fill in the pattern using a combination of blue and green acrylic paints. Finish with a very light smattering of gold. When the paint is dry, lightly sand the whole box with fine-grade sandpaper.

For young children, the thrill of hanging up a Christmas stocking is matched only by the excitement of opening it on Christmas morning. Delight a toddler with this stocking, which is sure to become an indispensable part of the family’s festive decorations for years to come.

WHAT YOU NEED

Master pattern C16(a—c)• 1 m red fabric, 90 cm wide • 40 cm x 30 cm fabric with Christmas print • 30 cm x 20 cm green print fabric (for tree appliqué)• Christmas print fabric scraps (for present appliques)•

2 pieces polyester batting, 40 cm x 30 cm• sewing thread: red, green, gold lam^e.50 cm ribbon, 10 mm wide • pencil • tracing paper • scissors • sewing machine

CUTTING OUT

1 Trace the pattern pieces for the stocking and the stocking collar from the master pattern on to tracing paper and cut them out. Trace the tree pattern on to another piece of tracing paper and cut that out.

2 Fold the red fabric in four. Pin the stocking pattern piece to the folded fabric and cut out four stocking shapes. Put one pair aside for the lining and work on the other pair to make the outer stocking.

3 Cut a collar piece 40 cm x 30 cm from the Christmas print fabric.

4 Cut the Christmas tree from the green fabric and the shapes of the presents from scraps of suitable Christmas print fabric.

5 Pin the main stocking pattern piece (not the collar) to the batting and cut out two stocking shapes.

SEWING THE APPLIQUE

1 Using the master pattern as a position guide, tack the applique shapes in place on the right side of one outer stocking piece.

2 Stitch the shapes in place with machine satin stitch (closed zigzag), using the green thread for the tree and the red for the presents.

3Thread the sewing machine with gold lame thread and use a long, straight machine stitch to add such details as Christmas tree decorations and ribbon ties to the appliques.

MAKING UP THE STOCKING

1 Pin the cut-out batting stocking pieces to the wrong sides of both outer stocking pieces.

2 With right sides facing and allowing a 1.5 cm seam, sew the back and front stocking pieces and the batting together, leaving the top open. Trim and clip the seams and press flat. Turn the work to the right side and press.

3 Repeat step 2 to sew the inner stocking pieces (the lining) together.

4 With wrong sides together, slip the lining inside the outer stocking. Tack the lining to the outer stocking along the upper edge.

5 With right sides facing, stitch the short ends of the collar together to form a cylinder. Press the seam open.

6 With the right side facing the outside of the stocking, match the seam of the collar to the back seam of the stocking. Pin and tack the collar to the upper edge of the stocking and machine stitch it in place.

7 On the unsewn edge of the collar, press down a 1.5 cm double hem. Fold the collar over to the inside of the stocking and slipstitch it into place, covering the line of stitching on the inside of the stocking. Turn the collar down to the outside to form the stocking top and press.

8 Make a loop for hanging the stocking up by oversewing the ends of the ribbon to the back seam on the inside of the top of the stocking.

Use gift-wrapping paper with an interesting motif to turn a plain box into a delightful chest for a youngster’s special treasures and trinkets.

WHAT YOU NEED

Small wooden box with hinged lid
2 matching sheets of attractive giftwrapping paper

Wallpaper paste

PVA glue

Wood filler

Artist’s acrylic gloss medium (sealer)

Gold paint

Polyurethane gloss varnish

3 small paintbrushes (for sealing, gluing and painting)

25 mm imitation sable brush (for varnishing)

Sandpaper: medium- grade, wet-and-dry nos 600 and 1200

Rubber sanding block

Rubber roller

Scalpel or craft knife

Small pieces of kitchen sponge

Lint-free cloth

PREPARING THE BOX

1 Remove the handles and any exterior hinges from the box and store them carefully.

2 Fill any cracks or nail holes in the box with the wood filler, following the manufacturer’s directions.

3 Lightly sand all outside surfaces with medium-grade dry sandpaper and wipe them completely clean of residue with the lint-free cloth. Paint both the inside and the outside of the box with the sealer and allow to dry.

SEALING AND CUTTING THE PAPER

1 Coat the wrapping paper on both sides with the sealer, allowing the paper to dry between applications.

2 Place the lid of the box upside down on the wrong side of one of the sheets of wrapping paper and trace around the outside of the top. Remove the lid and use the scalpel to cut the paper exactly to size. (The paper may stretch slightly when you glue it to the box, but the excess can be trimmed away when the glue is dry.) If the paper has a large design, you may wish to centre the design on the lid.

3 Put the lid on the box and wrap a full sheet of paper around all four sides of the box, adjusting the position of the paper on the box to show off the design. Cut the paper to the exact size – it should not overlap at the ends or extend under the box.

PAPERING THE BOX

1 Mix three parts wallpaper paste and one part PVA glue to a smooth paste, making sure that no lumps remain.

2 Apply a generous coat of glue to the top of the lid. Press the trimmed paper for the lid top into position.

3 Using the rubber roller and working from the centre outwards, smooth the surface, squeezing out air bubbles and excess glue. Wipe off any excess glue with a damp sponge.

4 When the glue is dry, use a scalpel or craft knife to trim the edges of the paper to fit the lid top exactly.

5 With the lid in position, and working on one side at a time, repeat steps 2 to 4 to stick the paper to the sides of the box.

6 Use the scalpel or craft knife to carefully separate the lid of the box from the base, starting from one of the corners. Trim excess paper from the edges and corners so that the paper is as flat as possible, with no ridges or bumps. If any paper lifts or tears as you work, apply a little more glue and gently massage the paper back on to the surface of the box.

VARNISHING THE BOX

1 Work in a well ventilated area, as varnish fumes can be toxic. Apply about 10 coats of varnish to the paper on the box, making sure that each coat is thoroughly dry before applying the next (at least 24 hours).

2 Using no. 600 wet-and-dry sandpaper wrapped around the sanding block and a little water, lightly sand the box, paying particular attention to the corners and the join in the paper, where the varnish may have built up. Wipe over the box with a lint-free cloth and apply another coat of varnish.

3 Apply another four or five coats of varnish, and then repeat step 2. The idea is to sand back the varnish where it is building up in the corners or seams and to build up the varnish elsewhere, until eventually the entire box feels smooth and seamless.

4 Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you are satisfied that the surface of the box is absolutely flat and smooth.

5 Apply three further coats of varnish, polishing the surface with no. 1200 wet-and-dry sandpaper between applications to achieve a very smooth, dull finish.

FINISHING

1 Paint the rims of the box and the lid with gold paint, and paint the inside gold or a colour of your choice.

2 When the paint is dry, attach the hinges and handles.

3 For a shiny, lasting finish, wax or micromesh the box.

COVERING THE BOX

It is best to use the type of wrapping paper that is sold in rolled sheets. If you use a folded paper, do not use any part that has fold creases in it, as they will show through the finish. Seal the paper on both sides with acrylic gloss medium before you begin.

Decide where on the box you want the design elements to appear: for example, the paper used on the box illustrated features old maps of the world and includes a lettered border, which looks very effective around the upper edge of the lid.

Covering the lid

Cut a sheet of paper to the exact size of the top of the lid. If the paper stretches when it is glued, you can trim away the excess later.

Once a tree base has been made, you can use it over and over again, so it is a good investment! You will need a 15cm (6in) flowerpot and some quick-drying cement. Cover the hole in the bottom with card; fill the pot between half and two-thirds full with cement, and place a twig or piece of dowelling, some 45cm (18in) long, into the centre of the cement. Support the twig until the cement is dry enough to hold it in position. Leave the base to dry for a couple of days before you use it. You will also need about 30 red roses, 20 small sprigs of holly and of variegated box, three or four trails of ivy, and some moss (here, bun moss, soaked in water).

INGREDIENTS

• Flowers and foliage
• Moss
  Tree base
• Green florist’s foam ball, 15cm (6in) in diameter
• Half a block of green
  florist’s foam, for the base
• 1m (3ft) of chiffon ribbon
  4cm (11/2in) wide, and one
  0.56mm (24 gauge) stub
  wire

1 Cover the cement base with soaked foam. Push the ball onto the twig, until the twig is at least half way through. Twist the ivy stems around the twig to soften it, and push the stems into the foam. Cover the base with moss.

2 Cover the ball with sprigs of holly and place some in the base. In place of the variegated box, you could use variegated holly, if this is available, and a plainer foliage. Large ivy leaves would also cover the ball well.

3 Put the sprigs of box between the holly, taking care not to stab yourself with the prickles of the holly. Make sure that the foam is completely covered — bald patches or glimpses of foam between the flowers are not very attractive.

4 Finally, put in the roses. Make sure they have been well conditioned so that they last well, and cut the stems to a length of about S cm (2in). Place the roses evenly all over the ball, and also put some in the base. Although this example uses only one variety of red rose, you could mix these with some deeper red roses or some brighter, more orange roses if you wanted to add more colour variations. Make the ribbon into a bow with streamers, and push the ends of the stub wire securing the bow into the foam at the top of the ‘trunk’.

A basket of flowers looks wonderful anywhere in the house, but seems particularly welcoming in a bedroom. If this colour scheme does not match your decor, you could substitute cream orchids and change the colours of the other flowers. As it is made with wet foam, this arrangement should last well, providing you have conditioned the foliage and flowers carefully before using them. You will need from 20 to 30 pieces of assorted foliage, about 15cm (6in) long; I have used silvery A triplex halimus, Vibernum tinus ‘Variegata’ and eucalyptus. The flowers in the basket are a bunch of yellow and red Singapore orchids, a small bunch of yellow alstroemeria and ten
apricot roses.

INGREDIENTS

• Flowers and foliage,
• A half block of green florist’s foam
• A basket, about 20cm (8in) in diameter

1 If unlined, line the basket with polythene. Soak the foam and place it in the basket. Insert the foliage evenly, hiding most of the foam and putting some shorter pieces at the top. Add the orchids, breaking sprays into individual flowers.

2 Add the alstroemeria, again using separate flowers rather than whole sprays. Finish with the apricot roses, trimming the stems to about 10-12.5cm (4-5in) and removing any leaves and thorns.

The simplest of arrangements can often be the most effective. Nothing could be easier than to float a few beautiful flower heads in some shallow water, and the end result is quite lovely. Select a container deep enough to allow the flowers to float, as opposed to resting on the bottom, and make sure the interior of the container is perfect, as it will be visible in parts. The choice of blooms will depend upon the flowers you have available in the garden or the selection at the florist. Pick an open-faced flat flower so that it looks good from overhead as opposed to a sideways view. The number of flower heads will depend upon the size of your container.

INGREDIENTS

• Flower heads and leaves of your choice — in this case five camellias and their leaves
• A shallow waterproof container

Clean the container thoroughly; dry it, then fill with water to a depth of about two thirds. Cut the stems fairly short, but not so close to the back of the flower that you risk it falling to pieces. Any leaves can be cut off the stalks individually and floated around the flowers. To add an extra dimension you could include some floating candles in the arrangement or choose flowers of different colours.